Southern France Travel Guide: Marseille, Toulouse & Nice

Itinerary

Marseille | 6–9 May Marseille was the starting point of my trip through southern France. Flights directly to Nice can often be significantly cheaper, so it is worth comparing prices before booking your journey. However, Marseille has plenty to offer, and despite its somewhat controversial reputation, I found it charming and well worth visiting.

I personally never felt unsafe during my stay and ended up enjoying the city more than I expected. I particularly liked the central and historic areas, especially the 7th arrondissement, where you can experience a more authentic side of Marseille.

Best things to do in Marseille Café de l’Abbaye and Viaghji di Fonfon

If you are looking for a place to enjoy sunset drinks and tapas, I highly recommend Café de l’Abbaye and Viaghji di Fonfon. Both are great spots to slow down, enjoy the atmosphere and soak up the Mediterranean lifestyle.

Vallon des Auffes

One of my favourite places in Marseille was Vallon des Auffes, a small, picturesque fishing harbour tucked away along the coast. It is the perfect place to experience the local atmosphere, watch fishermen’s boats bobbing in the water and see people meeting friends after work.

The harbour has a long maritime history. Its name comes from auffe, a Provençal plant traditionally used to make ropes and fishing nets. The colourful fishermen’s houses and traditional wooden boats give this little corner of Marseille a character that feels worlds away from the busy city centre. I would definitely recommend visiting around sunset. [1]

Parc Borély

Another place I really enjoyed was Parc Borély. It was close to my accommodation and the beach, making it a lovely place to escape the city, go for a walk or simply relax on a sunny afternoon.

The park is one of Marseille’s best-known green spaces and includes historic gardens surrounding an elegant country house. It is a great addition to your itinerary if you want to combine sightseeing with some downtime.

Calanque de Sormiou

If the weather is good, I also recommend visiting Calanque de Sormiou for a relaxing day by the sea. Its turquoise water, dramatic limestone cliffs and Mediterranean scenery make it one of the most beautiful natural spots near Marseille.

The calanques are part of a protected landscape, so check access conditions before visiting, particularly during summer, when fire risks can lead to restrictions. Bring water, comfortable shoes and everything you need for the day.

Where I stayed in Marseille I stayed at Prado Studio, which I found on Booking.com. The location was convenient, especially because it was close to the beach and Parc Borély. The main downside was that the studio was on level -1, but I still enjoyed my stay.

Getting from Marseille to Toulouse From Marseille, I took a train to Toulouse for around €30. It was a convenient way to continue my journey and explore another city in southern France.

Toulouse | 9–10 May Toulouse was a short stop on my itinerary. I wanted to see the city where I had been offered the opportunity to do my Erasmus programme, and I was pleasantly surprised by how beautiful it was.

Toulouse is often called La Ville Rose, or the Pink City, because of the distinctive terracotta bricks used in many of its historic buildings. Depending on the light, the façades can appear pink, orange or deep red, giving the city a very distinctive atmosphere.

Toulouse has more than 2,000 years of history. It was an important Roman settlement and later became a major regional centre. During the Renaissance, the city grew wealthy through the pastel trade, which used a plant-derived blue dye that was highly valued across Europe. Many of the grand townhouses built by wealthy merchants during this period still stand today. [2]

Although I only had one day there, Toulouse quickly became one of the cities I would love to explore more thoroughly.

Best things to do in Toulouse Jardin des Plantes and Jardin du Grand Rond

These two beautiful green spaces are perfect for a peaceful walk. Jardin des Plantes is ideal for relaxing among the greenery, while Jardin du Grand Rond offers elegant paths and a lovely atmosphere.

Place du Capitole

Place du Capitole is one of the city's most recognisable landmarks and a great starting point for exploring the historic centre. The Capitole building has served as the seat of Toulouse's municipal government for centuries. Its grand façade and historic interiors reflect the city's importance as a regional political and cultural centre.

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Daurade

This beautiful church is worth visiting if you enjoy historic architecture and religious heritage. The site has ancient Christian roots, and the present church is associated with a much longer history of worship along the Garonne River.

Walk along the Garonne River

I would also recommend walking along the Garonne River to admire Toulouse from a different perspective. The riverbanks offer lovely views of the city's historic architecture and are particularly atmospheric in the late afternoon.

Explore the historic neighbourhoods

Take some time to wander around the old streets and squares rather than sticking only to the main attractions. Toulouse is a city where the architecture, little cafés and everyday street life are a big part of the experience.

Food and shopping recommendations in Toulouse Marché Victor Hugo — my favourite place in Toulouse

If there is one place I would recommend above everything else in Toulouse, it is Marché Victor Hugo. This covered market was easily my favourite spot in the city.

It is the perfect place to discover French food, with stalls selling cheese, wine, sweets, pastries, meat and charcuterie. The quality of the products is excellent, the prices felt relatively affordable, and the atmosphere was fantastic.

I would especially recommend visiting on a weekend morning, when the market is full of life. Buy a few things that catch your eye and enjoy them at the nearby Jardin Pierre Goudouli, close to the historic carousel.

The market is also part of Toulouse's long trading tradition. Although the current covered market dates from the mid-20th century, the city's markets have roots stretching back to antiquity. [3]

La Gourmandine Côté Boutique

If you enjoy French patisserie, this is a lovely place to look for beautifully presented individual pastries, delicate desserts and more refined sweet treats.

Fève Mignon

Another stop for French pastries if you want to explore the city's sweet side.

Santa Rosa

A good stop if you are interested in niche fragrances and enjoy discovering less mainstream perfumes.

Square du Général-de-Gaulle

A pleasant square to include while exploring the city centre, especially when walking between the main sights and shopping streets.

Overall, Toulouse is a wonderful city for anyone who appreciates historic architecture, excellent food and a relaxed southern French atmosphere. Even with only one day available, you can experience a lot by exploring on foot.

Nice and the French Riviera | 11–15 May I travelled overnight from Toulouse to Nice by FlixBus, which helped me save both time and money. The journey cost around €20, and I arrived in Nice in the morning, ready to start exploring.

The bus stopped at Nice Airport. At the time of my trip, I found that walking to the next tram stop was a way to avoid the airport-specific fare and use a regular city ticket instead. However, transport fares and ticketing rules can change, so check the current conditions before travelling.

My main plan for Nice was to enjoy the coastline, spend time in the sun and visit some of the beautiful towns and villages along the French Riviera, including Èze, Menton and Villefranche-sur-Mer.

I spent plenty of time simply enjoying the city and the good weather. For me, that is one of the best things about Nice: you do not need to fill every hour with sightseeing. Sometimes the best plan is to walk along the sea, find a café and enjoy the Mediterranean atmosphere.

Exploring the French Riviera by moped One day, I decided to rent a 50cc moped, which turned out to be a great way to explore the surrounding area.

I rented mine from Ride Loc for around €45 and had a very positive experience. The company was professional, the service was great, and I would happily recommend it.

A few practical things to know before renting a scooter in France:

Book in advance. I would recommend reserving your moped or bicycle at least two weeks ahead during the high season, as availability can be limited. Check the licence requirements. Do not assume that a standard category B driving licence automatically qualifies you to ride every scooter. Requirements depend on the vehicle, your licence history and applicable French rules. Confirm your eligibility directly with the rental company before booking. Budget for the deposit. My rental required a €900 deposit, so make sure you have enough available on your card. Remember your gloves. Gloves are required when riding a motorised two- or three-wheeled vehicle in France. My rental company provided them. Remove your helmet at petrol stations. I was advised to take my helmet off before refuelling, as it may be required by the station's rules. Follow the instructions displayed at the station. For me, having a moped was much more convenient than relying entirely on public transport. Even before the high season, buses and trains could be extremely crowded. When a bus is full, you may have to wait for the next one, which can disrupt your plans.

A scooter gave me much more flexibility, particularly when visiting smaller coastal towns. Parking was manageable, although it is important to leave the vehicle only in designated parking areas.

Always check the current local traffic rules, parking restrictions and rental conditions before setting off.

The places I would not skip on the French Riviera <PRIVATE_PERSON> and the surrounding coastline offer some of the most beautiful scenery in southern France. If you have a few days in Nice, I would prioritise these places.

1. Èze

Èze is one of the most picturesque medieval villages on the French Riviera. Perched high above the Mediterranean, it is famous for its narrow stone streets, charming old buildings and spectacular views.

The village's history stretches back many centuries, and its elevated position made it strategically important in the past. Today, the winding lanes and historic architecture make it one of the most memorable places to visit near Nice.

Do not miss the Jardin Exotique d'Èze, which is located among the ruins of a medieval fortress. The garden is filled with cacti and succulents, but the real highlight is the panoramic view across the Mediterranean. I found the €15 entrance fee worthwhile, although prices may change. [4]

2. Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Located on the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula, this elegant villa is one of the most impressive historic properties on the French Riviera.

The villa was created by Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild in the early 20th century and completed in 1912. Inspired by Italian Renaissance architecture, it houses an impressive art collection and is surrounded by beautiful themed gardens overlooking the Mediterranean.

If you enjoy architecture, art and landscaped gardens, this is a place I would strongly recommend adding to your itinerary. [5]

3. Beaulieu-sur-Mer

A lovely coastal town for a relaxed walk, beautiful sea views and a quieter atmosphere than some of the busier Riviera destinations.

4. Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

This beautiful peninsula is known for its clear water, coastal paths, elegant villas and Mediterranean vegetation. It is a wonderful place to explore at a slower pace and appreciate the natural beauty of the French Riviera.

5. Cap-d'Ail

Cap-d'Ail is a great choice if you enjoy coastal walks and dramatic Mediterranean scenery. Its rocky shoreline and turquoise water make it a particularly attractive stop on a sunny day.

6. Menton

Menton is one of the most colourful towns on the French Riviera, close to the Italian border. It is known for its pastel-coloured buildings, old town, gardens and distinctive blend of French and Italian influences.

The town has long been shaped by its position near Italy, which is reflected in its architecture, food and atmosphere. I would definitely include it if you have enough time to explore beyond Nice.

7. Villefranche-sur-Mer

Villefranche-sur-Mer is another place I would highly recommend. Its colourful waterfront, historic old town and sheltered bay make it one of the most photogenic spots along the coast.

It is ideal for a leisurely afternoon, whether you want to wander through the old streets, sit by the water or simply enjoy the view.

Is Monaco worth visiting? Monaco was not my favourite stop on the trip. I did not find the city itself particularly exciting compared with some of the smaller coastal towns nearby.

That said, if you have never visited Monaco, I think it is still worth seeing once. The famous Monte Carlo Casino is an iconic landmark, and the city offers a glimpse into a very different side of the French Riviera, with luxury hotels, superyachts and high-end restaurants.

Personally, I would prioritise Èze, Menton, Villefranche-sur-Mer and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat if I had limited time.

Is Antibes worth visiting? Antibes was another place I would not prioritise on a short trip. I did not find there was as much to see as in some of the other coastal destinations I visited, and travelling there takes additional time.

However, this is entirely a matter of personal preference. If you have more days available, enjoy historic old towns or want to explore more of the coastline, Antibes could still be a worthwhile addition.

My advice for visiting Nice and the French Riviera If I were planning this trip again, I would spend less time rushing between destinations and more time enjoying the smaller towns along the coast.

Nice makes an excellent base for exploring the French Riviera, but the surrounding villages are what made this part of my trip particularly memorable. If the weather is good, consider renting a scooter or bicycle where appropriate, checking transport connections in advance and leaving enough time to stop whenever you find a beautiful viewpoint.

The French Riviera is at its best when you allow yourself to slow down: enjoy a coffee in a small square, wander through historic streets, take a coastal walk or spend an afternoon by the sea.